Pizza Pilgrimage
Food WineEat your way through the birthplace of pizza: Da Michele for Margherita perfection, Sorbillo for creative toppings, and Starita for the fried pizza.
~$8
Italy
Naples is the raw, magnificent, complicated heart of southern Italy. It invented pizza — not as a marketing claim but as historical fact — and the Margherita from a wood-fired oven in the Centro Storico, with San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte, and fresh basil on a charred, pillowy base, remains one of the world's perfect foods. The city takes its pizza so seriously that the art of Neapolitan pizza-making is UNESCO-listed.
The city's beauty is not the manicured beauty of Florence or the monumental beauty of Rome. It is feral and electric. Laundry hangs between Baroque church facades. Scooters weave through markets selling fresh octopus and contraband cigarettes on the same table. The Spaccanapoli — a street so straight and narrow it "splits Naples" — cuts through the ancient Greek and Roman grid like a time-lapse through 2,500 years. Underground, the Napoli Sotterranea reveals Greek aqueducts and Roman theaters buried beneath the living city.
Naples is also the gateway to some of Italy's greatest day trips. Pompeii and Herculaneum — preserved under Vesuvius's ash since 79 AD — are 30 minutes by train. The Amalfi Coast's cliffside villages are an hour by bus. Capri's Blue Grotto and Villa Jovis are a ferry ride across the bay. And Vesuvius itself can be climbed for crater-edge views of the entire Bay of Naples. All of this at prices that make northern Italy look obscene.
Eat your way through the birthplace of pizza: Da Michele for Margherita perfection, Sorbillo for creative toppings, and Starita for the fried pizza.
~$8
The Roman city frozen by Vesuvius in 79 AD: walk ancient streets past amphitheaters, bathhouses, brothels, and plaster casts of victims.
~$18
Descend 40 meters beneath the city to explore Greek aqueducts, Roman cisterns, and WWII air-raid shelters carved from volcanic tufa.
~$12
The finest collection of Greco-Roman antiquities in the world: the Farnese Hercules, Alexander Mosaic, and erotic art from Pompeii's villas.
~$18
Walk the arrow-straight street that splits the old city: Baroque churches, artisan presepe (nativity scene) workshops, and street-food vendors.
Free
Climb to the crater rim of the only active volcano on mainland Europe for views of the Bay of Naples and the cities it once buried.
~$12
Ferry across the bay to the glamorous island: the Blue Grotto, Villa Jovis, the Faraglioni rock formations, and limoncello tastings.
~$50
Smaller and better preserved than Pompeii: wooden balconies, mosaic floors, and carbonized papyrus scrolls — all buried by volcanic mud.
~$13
Year-round nativity-scene workshops: handmade figurines of saints, politicians, and footballers alongside traditional presepe craft.
Free
Bus or boat along the spectacular coastline: Positano's pastel cascade, Amalfi's cathedral, and Ravello's garden views over the Mediterranean.
~$35
Since 1870, only two pizzas: Margherita and Marinara. The dough is perfect, the tomatoes are perfect, the line is worth it.
Three generations of pizza-making on Via dei Tribunali: a wider menu than Da Michele, including inventive seasonal toppings.
Chaotic, communal, and legendary in the Quartieri Spagnoli: fixed-price lunch with shouting waiters, flying bread rolls, and outstanding pasta.
The grand cafe on Piazza del Plebiscito since 1860: espresso at the bar, sfogliatella pastry, and Belle Epoque interiors.
Fried everything: pizza fritta (folded and fried), crocche di patate, arancini, and cuoppo (paper-cone assortment) from a neighborhood counter.
The UNESCO-listed historic center: Spaccanapoli, Via dei Tribunali's pizza row, underground ruins, Baroque churches, and the daily chaos of Neapolitan life.
The Spanish Quarters: a tight grid of narrow streets with hanging laundry, street shrines, trattorias, and a gritty authenticity that defines Naples.
The hilltop residential district above the chaos: Castel Sant'Elmo, Certosa di San Martino, panoramic views, and a quieter pace with good local dining.
The waterfront and upscale shopping district: the seafront promenade, Castel dell'Ovo, boutiques, and cocktail bars with Vesuvius views.
US passport holders: visa-free for up to 90 days in the Schengen Area.
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